The Wonder and Glory of the North
Visitors to the Orkney Museum in Kirkwall sometimes ask where the Cathedral is - staff point across the street. We can only guess that they are looking for a ruin, as they've read that it was founded in 1137. St Magnus and Glasgow are the two oldest cathedrals in Scotland, the only two to survive the Reformation in the sixteenth century.
The cathedral was founded by Earl Rognvald (pronounced Ronald) and dedicated to his uncle St Magnus, who had been killed by his cousin and joint earl, Hakon. It was described as, "the wonder and glory of the north"
Rognvald was later canonised as well but on even shakier grounds than his uncle. As Orcadian writer J Storer Clouston wrote, "Though no more charming addition to the number of the beatified could well be imagined, it is a little difficult to see what this gallant gentleman and accomplished poet is doing in that particular galley."
We know so much about the people and events in 11th and 12th century Orkney because of the Orkneyinga Saga, written in Iceland between 1192 and 1206 and Rognvald is a vividly drawn, attractive figure but not a candidate for canonisation.
The cathedral is built from the local red and yellow sandstone and we love our pink Cathedral but the soft stone does make it harder to look after. We were very fortunate that Sheriff Thoms left a large bequest which funded a major restoration a hundred years ago. A new, taller spire was built and the tower was heightened, to make space for the clock-face above the windows. Unnoticed now by almost everyone below, these wonderfully varied and detailed heads look down from all four sides of the tower.
Tours of the upper levels of the Cathedral are given twice a week and you can get a closer view of the gargoyles,
and fascinating views of Kirkwall. This one is looking north across the bay, towards some of the North Isles: Rousay, Gairsay and Shapinsay
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